Cetalox and Everclear: "Not" Not a Perfume

So, back in October, my friend Sam and I attended the Supernatural Sessions at the W3LL PEOPLE studio in Austin.  We had a great time, had a couple of local, natural cocktails, and scored a huge goodie bag full of awesome free samples.  Afterwards, we headed down the road to Barlata for tapas and another round of drinks, took a selfie, then went back to Sam's house where we split up that goodie bag like a poker pot.  :)

Image source:  Elizabeth Kertesz

I was planning to publish a blog post about the whole thing, but never got around to it.  Then by chance, I noticed that Crystal, from Clean Beauty Craze beat me to it.  Doh!  Seriously, she wrote up a great post about it - so here is the link - read all about it!

That was over a month ago, and in the meantime, I have been testing out some of those products from the goodie bag. A few of my favorites are the Resurrecting Wash and Rinse from Dear Clark, which smell heavenly, and a new product called Bio Tint that W3LL PEOPLE is planning to release soon. But interestingly enough, the thing that really caught my attention was a perfume.  A perfume called "Not A Perfume" made by Juliette Has a Gun.  

Now, for the past year or so, I've been researching all the ingredients in my beauty products, and one of the first things I learned was that the word "Fragrance" on an ingredient list denotes an undisclosed, proprietary blend of chemicals, often including phthalates and allergens, and EWG's Skin Deep database gives the ingredient "Fragrance" a score of 8 (High Hazard).  So I have been avoiding fragrance in general, and perfume in particular.  "Not A Perfume" got my attention though - I like the name, I got it in a goodie bag at a green beauty event, and even though the ingredient list includes the word fragrance, there was a note on the packaging that said it was allergen free. Also, it's made in a perfume house in Paris, which is kind of charming.

My first impression of the scent was that it smelled "clean and crisp".  It only has one fragrance component, called Cetalox, which is a synthetic form of ambergris.  I couldn't find much information on the safety of Cetalox in the Skin Deep database or elsewhere, but the MSDS states that there are no known health hazards associated with it.

After going so long without fragrance, I think I really missed smelling good, because I sort of fell in love with this product.  However, since the ingredient list contained the word "Fragrance", I had to make sure it was free of phthalates, parabens and formaldehyde, so I emailed Juliette Has a Gun, and at 3 a.m. my time (the following business day in Paris), I received an email from a lady named Ophélie Lagref confirming that it is indeed free of those nasties.  So, with the green light, I started using the sample, and now it's completely gone.  I wanted to buy a full bottle of the stuff, but even though it's called "Not A Perfume", it's still just as pricey as any nice eau de parfum, $80 for 50 mL.  So I couldn't justify buying it for myself, since part of my goal here is to stay on a low-cost budget.  I thought about asking my husband to give me a bottle of it for Christmas, but the poor guy lost his sense of smell a long time ago, so that just seemed cruel.

I read a couple of reviews, like this one from Beautiful With Brains, and noticed that one of the biggest criticisms of Not A Perfume is that it is simply Cetalox (also called Ambroxan) diluted in ethanol...and you know, that got those wheels turning in my head...  Could I make my own batch at home?  Before I knew what I was doing, a vial of white Cetalox crystals arrived in my mailbox.  I headed over to Craftiques, purchased a vintage perfume bottle for a great price, then swung by the liquor store to pick up a bottle of Everclear, and BAM! - I ended up with some sort of solution that smells an awful lot like Not A Perfume for a fraction of the price.

Image Source:  Elizabeth Kertesz

Honestly, I cannot recommend that my readers try this at home.  Everclear is extremely flammable, and the Cetalox MSDS says to keep it away from heat, but in order to get the crystals to dissolve, I ended up heating the mixture in a Pyrex measuring cup in a water bath on the stove, which was scary.  I didn't have the proper equipment or know-how to do this, so in retrospect, I think it was a little too dangerous.  Also, even though I eventually got most of the crystals to dissolve, there are still a few floating around in there - so I must have done something wrong.  And, yes, I feel kind of guilty for going out and making a knock-off version, especially after I told Ophélie that I was planning to purchase a bottle.

Still, my bootleg version of "Not" Not A Perfume smells great, and I wear it everyday. Something about dabbing on perfume everyday makes me feel so elegant. After conducting this little experiment, I want to learn more about the art of natural perfumery, so I've placed a couple of books on hold at the library, and hope to report back at a later date with better advice on the subject.


  

Two Ingredient Moisturizer

If you were sent to live on a desert island and could only bring one beauty product with you, what would it be?  I would probably pick soap.  But if I was allowed to bring two things, it would be soap and a good moisturizer.  Moisturizer helps to prevent and heal dry, cracked skin, and provides a protective barrier.  A good moisturizer will give your skin a healthy glow and is one of the most important aspects of any good beauty regimen.

Image Source:  iClipart

The Problem

At the beginning of the year, I was actually using three different moisturizers.  For my face, I was using Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisture with Sunscreen.  For my body I used Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion.  And as a new mom, I had begun to notice a lot of little wrinkles developing around my eyes, so I decided I needed a specialized cream designed exclusively for the eye area.  The most affordable one I could find was L’oreal Eye Defense – priced around $15 for just half an ounce! 

One of the things I’ve learned this year is that all these different types of moisturizers contain basically the same types of ingredients, so paying up to (or above) $30 an ounce for a so-called specialized moisturizer is really just a rip off.  Especially when you consider that some of the ingredients may not be completely safe:

• Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisture with Sunscreen (SPF 15) has a rating of 6 (moderate hazard) in the EWG’s SkinDeep database. 

o   It includes Polyparaben and Oxybenzone, both of which are considered High Hazard ingredients, and have been linked to endocrine disruption. 

o   It also contains the questionable ingredients Octinoxate, Diazolydinyl Urea (a Formaldehyde Releaser), Triethanolamine, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, PEG-100 Stearate, and Dimethicone, all of which have been rated as Moderate Hazard ingredients for various reasons, including endocrine disruption, allergies, organ system toxicity, and ecotoxicology.

• Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion has a rating of 2 (low hazard), which is actually not too bad.  Still, it could be better, because it does contain some Moderate Hazard ingredients: Benzyl Alcohol, Petrolatum, Distearyldimonium Chloride, and Dimethicone.

• And my $30 per ounce “affordable” eye cream, L’oreal Eye Defense, has a rating of 6 (moderate hazard), because it is chock full of parabens, which have been linked to endocrine disruption:  Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethyl Paraben, and Methylparaben.  It also contains Propylene Glycol, which is rated as a Moderate Hazard ingredient due to allergies, organ system toxicity, and enhanced skin absorption.

I decided to come up with a way to moisturize my face and body with as few ingredients as possible.  Almost all moisturizers contain at least two types of ingredients:  humectants and emollients (Gabriel 2008).  Humectants attract water into the skin and help it to “plump up”.  Emollients help prevent water from leaving the skin, and also help to maintain the skin barrier, heal cracked skin, etc.  

Since humectants are by definition water attractant, and emollients are typically oily, they don’t naturally mix together.  Therefore, in order to create a lotion containing both types of ingredients, emulsifiers are needed to blend the water loving and oil loving ingredients, and stabilizers need to be added to keep the formula at a uniform consistency.  

Water is almost always one of the first ingredients listed on any moisturizer.  It helps provide the proper texture and also acts as a penetration enhancer (Gabriel 2008).  Typically once water is added to any beauty product, it becomes necessary to either refrigerate the product or add preservatives, otherwise the water will breed harmful bacteria, viruses and fungi.  

Unfortunately, most of the preservatives that keep harmful microbes at bay (Making Cosmetics, Inc.)  are classified as Moderate to High Hazard ingredients in the EWG Skin Deep Database (see summary table below).  While there are some Low Hazard natural preservatives available, their antimicrobial activity is not as effective as most of the more widely used, broad spectrum synthetic preservatives (Making Cosmetics, Inc.).

   

Preservative	Skin Deep Rating	Hazard Level
Methylparaben	4, Limited	Moderate
Ethylparaben	4, Limited	Moderate
Propylparaben	10, Limited	High
Butylparaben	7, Limited	High
Imidazolidinyl Urea	6, Limited	Moderate
Diazolidinyl Urea	6, Limited	Moderate
Methylchloroisothiazolinone	5, Limited	Moderate
Methylisothiazolinone	5, Limited	Moderate
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate	4-6, Limited	Moderate
Methyldibromo Glutaronitrile	7, Limited	High
Sodium Benzoate	3, Fair	Moderate
Chloracetamide	8, Limited	High
EDTA	2, Fair	Low
Phenoxyethanol	4, Limited	Moderate
Triclosan	7, Fair	High
DMDM-Hydantoin	7, Limited	High
Quaternium-15	8, Limited	High
Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE)	3, Limited	Moderate
Rosemary Extract	0, Limited	Low
Tea Tree Oil	0, Limited	Low
Neem Seed Oil	0, Limited	Low
Thyme Oil	0, Limited	Low
Vitamin E (Tocopherol)	1, Fair	Low
Vitamin C (Asorbic Acid)	0, Fair	Low

It's not that it's impossible to find a safe, effective, commercially prepared moisturizing lotion.  There are plenty listed in Skin Deep.  The problem is that most of them are a little pricey, and I feel like it's more cost effective just to purchase the raw ingredients myself.  

I could try making lotion at home and keep it in the fridge, but that requires an extra level of time and research that I'm not willing to invest at this time.  I’m already making my own hairspray, sunscreen, bodywash and laundry detergent.  I can’t stay in the kitchen all day whipping up cosmetics and household products.  :)

 

Instead, I use just two ingredients that don’t need to be preserved because I don’t emulsify them.  It’s a simple, two-step process.

The Solution

Step One – Glycerin

Glycerin is one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients, and is a very effective humectant, which again, means that it attracts water into the skin.  It is rated 0 (Low Hazard) by Skin Deep.  I purchased a bottle of NOW Brand Vegetable Glycerin from Whole Foods ($8.99 for 16 oz).  There are a couple of different processes for making vegetable glycerin, and when purchasing, it’s best to get the kind that is not a byproduct of biodiesel manufacturing.  Vegetable Glycerin is very thick and syrupy, and needs to be diluted with water to achieve the desired effect.  Some people are allergic to it, so be careful and avoid it if you think you may be allergic.

Right after I get out of the shower, while my skin is still damp, I take a small amount of glycerin and mix it at least an equal part of water in the palm of my hand.  I begin by applying it on my face and neck, and then move on to the rest of the body, all the way down to the tips of my toes.  The beauty of mixing it with water immediately before applying is because my skin’s needs vary based on the weather, time of the month, body part, etc., and I can make it more diluted when my skin is oily or less diluted when my skin is dry and needs extra moisture.  As I apply the glycerin, I can literally feel my skin getting more plump as it soaks up the moisture.  The past couple of weeks, it has been extremely hot and humid, so there have been a few days when I just applied a light dilution of glycerin and left it at that.  But on most days, I feel like I also need an emollient to hold in the moisture.

Step Two – Plant Oil

All oils are emollients, but some are more emollient than others, and they all have slightly different properties.  The two oils most widely used in cosmetics are mineral oil and petrolatum.  Skin Deep has mineral oil rated as 1-3 (Low-Moderate Hazard), depending on usage.  From what I can tell based on the database results, it looks like there is only a concern with toxicity if mineral oil is used in aerosol form.  Petrolatum (also known as petroleum jelly), is rated 4 (Moderate Hazard), due to concerns that it can be contaminated with PAHS (a possible carcinogen and endocrine disruptor) and association with organ system toxicity.  So, based on the Skin Deep assessment, I would venture to say that mineral oil is usually pretty safe to use, but petroleum jelly, not so much. 

Mineral oil is also very inexpensive, which makes it a tempting option for someone like me who is looking to save money.  There are some who claim that mineral oil forms a thick occlusive film over the skin, trapping in dirt and grime and causing blocked pores (Gabriel 2008, Petty 2011), but there are other people who say that this simply isn’t true, and that mineral oil doesn’t block pores any more than plant oils do (Begoun 2009).  Quite frankly, I haven’t been able to find enough evidence to support either position.

Dimethicone is a silicone ingredient that is also widely used as an emollient ingredient in cosmetics.  It is a very lightweight moisturizer with a nice, non-greasy feel.  I’ve found that it is even used in many “green” and “natural” branded cosmetics, but Skin Deep has it rated at 3 (Moderate Hazard) due to concerns with organ system toxicity and ecotoxicity.  It’s not the worst ingredient I found in my beauty cabinet this year, and I really used to enjoy that “non-greasy” feeling of the dimethicone-based moisturizers I was using, but I think it’s better to avoid it if possible.

For now, I’ve decided to use natural plant oils. As long as you aren't allergic to them, they are safe to use.  The oils below each have a rating of 0, Low Hazard in the Skin Deep database.  Also, many plant oils contain antioxidants and vitamins that benefit the skin.  Here are my personal favorites:

Sweet Almond Oil

Sweet Almond Oil is my favorite all-around emollient moisturizer.  It’s fairly inexpensive (about $9-$10 for a 16 oz. bottle) and available on the “healthy living” isle of my regular grocery store, HEB.  Sweet Almond Oil is nourishing enough to soften skin all over the body, but still lightweight enough that it can be used on the face.  It is also high in Vitamin E, an antioxidant which has been shown to protect against UV damage (Miles 2006)

Coconut Oil

I love the smell of coconut oil (although there are unscented varieties available).  It’s pretty inexpensive (about $9-$10) for a 28 oz. container, and is sold on the baking aisle at the grocery store.  Coconut oil is extremely emollient.  I’ve found that it causes breakouts when I use it on my face and back, but it works wonders for extremely dry skin and rough areas like knees, elbows, and heels.  I love using it during the winter to stave off dry flaky skin.  Coconut oil is full of fatty acids which plump up the skin (Nakhla 2011, Petty 2011)

Argan Oil

There seems to be a lot of buzz about argan oil lately.  Cosmetics companies are pitching it as an ancient Moroccan secret with miraculous anti-aging properties.  It does contain a large amount of tocopherols and other antioxidants which benefit the skin (Petty 2011).  However, other than that, the evidence that argan oil is a miraculous fountain of youth is a bit underwhelming.  That being said, I still wanted to try it, and I have to say, it was one of my favorites.

I found that it has a very nice lightweight texture, doesn't seem to cause breakouts, and gives the skin a warm glow.  Argan oil extraction is a labor intensive process, much of which must be done by hand.  The good thing about this is that it creates jobs and is an important source of income for Moroccan women.  The downside is that argan oil is very rare and expensive.  If you decide to try it, I recommend buying 100% pure argan oil in bulk for a good price.  I do not recommend paying top dollar for a commercially prepared moisturizer that contains a token amount of argan oil and the false promise of eternal youth.

Some other good moisturizing plant oils include olive oil, grapeseed oil and jojoba oil.  I tried all of these, but they weren’t my favorites for various reasons.  The olive oil seemed to be too heavy for the face, and while I love the smell of olive oil on my hands when I’m kneading pizza dough, I don’t necessarily want my entire body to smell like that on a regular basis.  Grapeseed oil is very lightweight, but I felt like it was a little bit too lightweight for my skin.  Jojoba oil was okay – the results were kind of similar to sweet almond oil, actually, but too expensive in my opinion.

After applying glycerin, I wash my hands, and apply a layer of whatever plant oil I happen to be using that day.  A little goes a long way.  I have to say, at first, it takes some time to get used to the feeling of the oil after using lightweight silicone based moisturizers for such a long time.  Now that I have gotten used to it, though, I love the way it gives my skin a healthy glow that lasts all day long.

References

Begoun, Paula.  (2009).  The Original Beauty Bible:  Unparalleled Information for      Beautiful and Younger Skin at Any Age.  Renton, WA:  Beginning Press.

Gabriel, Julie.  (2008).  The Green Beauty Guide:  Your Essential Resource to Organic  and Natural Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup, and Fragrances.  Deerfield Beach, Florida:    Health Communications, Inc.

Making Cosmetics, Inc.  How to Use Preservatives in Cosmetics.  Renton, WA.   http://www.makingcosmetics.com/articles/01-how-to-use-preservatives-in-  cosmetics.pdf, last accessed October 3, 2014.

Miles, S. (2006). Topical antioxidants. Alive: Canada's Natural Health & Wellness  Magazine, (287), 146-147.

Nakhla, Tony.  (2011).  The skin commandments:  10 rules to healthy, beautiful  skin.  St. Louis, MO:  Reedy Press.

Petty, L. (2011). BOTANICAL BALMS: Plant oils for beautiful skin. Alive: Canada's  Natural Health & Wellness Magazine, (343), 35-38.

Sunscreen Showdown

It's mid July - do you know where your sunscreen is?  I hope so!  Evidence shows that UV radiation and sunburns contribute to skin cancer (NCI 2007, EWG 2014d).  A good sunscreen, correctly applied, can play a role in skin cancer prevention by protecting against overexposure to UV rays and sunburn (EWG 2014d), and can help prevent photo aging and premature wrinkling of the skin (Puizina-Ivic 2008).

Just don't rely on sunscreen alone to save you from skin cancer. EWG's article, Skin Cancer on the Rise, reports that there is not enough evidence to prove that sunscreen use alone can lower the rate of skin cancer (EWG 2014d).  The sunscreen manufacturing industry is thriving (IBISWorld 2013).  Sunscreen use in the U.S. has been increasing slowly since the 1990s, and there was a significant increase in sunscreen use between 2005 and 2010 (CDC 2012).  However, skin cancer rates have tripled since 1970 (NCI 2007).

Furthermore, some of the ingredients contained in sunscreens may actually be harmful.  Retinyl palmitate (vitamin A), an anti-aging ingredient frequently added to sunscreens, has actually been shown to exacerbate skin cancer tumors in laboratory animals when applied to skin that was subsequently exposed to UV radiation (NTP 2012, EWG 2014c).  Most chemical sunscreen ingredients can be detected in human breastmilk, and there is some evidence that many of them may disrupt hormones (EWG 2014f).  Oxybenzone and octinoxate pose the highest concern, yet their use in sunscreen formulations is widespread in the U.S. (EWG 2014f).  And don't assume that manufacturers take this information into account and ensure that sunscreens marketed for babies exclude these questionable ingredients.  Check the label.  There are plenty of baby sunscreens that contain both retinyl palmitate and oxybenzone.

There are concerns with spray and powder sunscreens because they may not provide a thick enough coating to effectively protect against UV rays, and they may pose inhalation risks (EWG 2014e).  Also, there are some new sunscreen ingredients - Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M, Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL - which are more effective at blocking UVA rays than any sunscreen chemicals currently used in the U.S.  They have been reviewed for safety and have been approved for use in Europe and Canada, but due to delays with the FDA review process, they have not been approved for use in the U.S (EWG 2014a).  

The safest sunscreens available in the U.S. at this time are mineral sunscreens, which have their own disadvantages.  For example, according to the Skin Deep Cosmetics Database, zinc oxide has been shown to be bioaccumulative in wildlife, and titanium dioxide poses a risk of cancer (only when inhaled in powdered or aerosol form).  Another issue is the "nanoparticle" issue.  In order to create mineral sunscreen formulations that go on relatively clear, manufacturers must use very small mineral particles.  There have been some concerns that these small particles could potentially seep into the skin and enter the bloodstream, but there are also studies showing that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide nanoparticles do not penetrate the skin (EWG 2014b).   In my opinion, another disadvantage of safer mineral sunscreens is that they also seem to come at a painful price premium compared to their chemical sunscreen counterparts.

The waters are definitely contentious.

Image source:  Microsoft

But summertime is here.  It's time to hang out by the water and enjoy a little time in the sun, and it's important not to get overexposed or burnt.  

So, here is my personal, 4 point sun protection strategy:

1.  Get some vitamin D.

It seems that nowadays, we tend to shun the sun every chance we get.  We spend our days indoors.  When we do venture outside, we wear sunscreen and seek shade.  But, despite it's bad reputation, the sun provides us with something very important:  vitamin D. Vitamin D helps the body absorb calcium, and some studies show that it may prevent certain types of cancer, including colon cancer, prostate cancer and breast cancer (Kotz 2008).  It is good for the heart, and also helps prevent depression and insomnia (Kotz 2008).  Based on data collected between 2001-2006, the CDC has reported that about one in four Americans are at risk for vitamin D inadequacy, and, in addition, approximately 8% of Americans are at risk of deficiency (CDC 2011).

Personally, I take a multivitamin containing vitamin D, but I prefer to get at least some of this important nutrient the natural way, from the sun.  I've found that if I spend about 15-20 minutes a day in the sun, my skin gradually gets darker over the course of the summer, but I don't burn.  Although I wouldn't exactly recommend tanning as a primary means to prevent skin cancer, exposure to sunlight triggers skin cells to produce melanin, which actually helps to protect the skin from sun damage  (Berman 2012, Dugdale 2012).  Plus getting a tan makes me feel sexy and happy.

If you don't feel comfortable spending that much time in the sun without sunscreen, then don't.  But if you spend your days indoors and wear sunscreen at all times when you are outdoors, please talk to your doctor about Vitamin D.  There are supplements available if natural sun exposure is not an appropriate option for you.

2.  Make homemade sunscreen.

I whipped up a batch of sunscreen in my kitchen last week using this recipe from my favorite video fitness instructor, Ellen Barrett:

Click here for the link

The initial purchase of the bulk materials cost me about $45, but I only used a little bit to make the sunscreen, and still have plenty left over to use for other purposes.  When you look at it on a per ounce basis it's very cheap, only about fifty cents per ounce.

It was simple to make - the hardest part was obtaining all the ingredients.  I purchased the shea butter and zinc oxide online from Bulk Apothecary.   I could have bought the beeswax online as well, but Gretchen Bee Ranch has a booth at the local farmer's market that sells cosmetic grade beeswax by the pound, so I decided to get it there and support a local farm. I bought the sweet almond oil from Whole Foods, and I had coconut oil on hand because I usually buy some when I go grocery shopping at H.E.B.

When applying, it goes on kind of greasy, but at least it's clear, and it smells amazing.  In total, it provides about 28 SPF, and the active ingredient, zinc oxide, provides protection from both UVA and UVB rays.  The only drawback is that it needs to be refrigerated, so, while it works well if you apply it before you put on your bikini and head out for a swim at the neighborhood pool,  it's not very convenient to throw in your beach bag or to take with you on an overnight trip.

3.  Purchase the best value mineral sunscreen available.

This year  I purchased Badger SPF 30 Unscented mineral sunscreen.  It has a score of 1 (low hazard) from SkinDeep.  The cost is $15.99 for a 2.9 ounce container (that's $5.51 per ounce!), so it's not exactly cheap.  However, compared to the other safe sunscreens I looked into, it was the best value I could find.  Badger provides everyday free shipping for all orders of $25 and above, so I ordered 2 tubes, and the shipping was free.  Plus, they send you a free gift with every order, which is nice.  They sent me a little jar of peppermint foot balm.

After I had already received my Badger sunscreen, I learned from my cousin Heather that Zulily actually runs frequent specials on Badger brand sunscreen and COOLA sunscreen as well (which is another good mineral sunscreen brand).  So now I have signed up for Zulily's emails and hopefully when I start running low on the stuff I bought they will have a new deal available.

The Badger sunscreen is very thick and creamy, and goes on white when you apply it.  You have to let it soak in for about 15 minutes and then rub it in again to diminish some of the whiteness. For me, that was a bit of a drawback, because my husband laughed and told me I looked like a mime.  Of course, I quipped back at him with a snippy retort, but it's probably not appropriate to repeat it here.

I actually really prefer the way the homemade sunscreen looks, feels and smells. But the Badger brand sunscreen doesn't have to be refrigerated, and is more portable, so it's nice to have on hand if you are going somewhere.

4.  Don a wide brimmed hat.

Last year, I saw my sister-in-law Nicole wearing the most awesome wide brimmed hat I had ever seen.  So, even though I felt a little sheepish about being a copycat, I decided that I had to have one just like it for my trip to Puerto Vallarta this summer.  So I asked her where she got it, and savvy shopper that she is, she could still remember that she purchased it at Kohls, and even remembered the sale price.  Yeah Nicole!  Thanks.  So I rushed down the street to Kohls and got one for myself.

They actually have many designs to choose from, but what I like about this one is that it rolls up so it keeps it shape when you pack it in your suitcase, and it's adjustable, so I can actually fit it on my big old head!


Have a great summer and don't get burned!



References:

Berman, Kevin. 2012, December 9. Sun's effect on skin. MedlinePlus.  http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/anatomyvideos/000125.htm


CDC (Centers for Disease Control). 2011. Vitamin D Status: United States, 2001-2006. NCHS Data Brief. No. 59.  March 2011. http://www.cdc.gov/nchs/data/databriefs/db59.pdf

CDC (Centers for Disease Control). 2012. Sunburn and Sun Protective Behaviors Among Adults Aged 18–29 Years  — United States, 2000–    2010. MMWR May 11, 2012 / 61(18):317-322.  http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm6118a1.htm

Dugdale, David C. 2012, November 4. Melanin. MedlinePlus.  http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002256.htm

EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2014a. Does Europe Have Better Sunscreens?  http://www.ewg.org/2014sunscreen/does-europe-have-better-sunscreens/

EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2014b. Nanoparticles in Sunscreens.  http://www.ewg.org/2014sunscreen/nanoparticles-in-sunscreen/

EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2014c. The problem with vitamin A. http://www.ewg.org/2014sunscreen/the-  problem-with-vitamin-a/

EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2014d. Skin Cancer on the Rise. http://www.ewg.org/2014sunscreen/skin-      cancer-on-the-rise/

EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2014e. Sun Safety Gets Easier With EWG's 2014 Guide to Sunscreens.  http://www.ewg.org/2014sunscreen/sun-safety-gets-easier/

EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2014f. The Trouble With Sunscreen Chemicals.  http://www.ewg.org/2014sunscreen/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/

IBISWorld. 2013. Sunscreen Manufacturing in the US: Market Research Report.  http://www.ibisworld.com/industry/sunscreen-manufacturing.html.


Kotz, Deborah. 2008, June 23. Time in the Sun: How Much is Needed For Vitamin D? U.S. News and World Report.  http://health.usnews.com/health-news/family-health/heart/articles/2008/06/23/time-in-the-sun-how-much-is-  needed-for-vitamin-d

NCI (National Cancer Institute). 2007. General Information about Skin Cancer.        http://www.cancer.gov/cancertopics/pdq/treatment/skin/patient

NTP (National Toxicology Program). 2012. NTP Technical Report on the Photococarcinogenesis Study of Retinoic  Acid and Retinyl Palmitate [CAS Nos. 302-79-4 (All-Trans-Retinoic Acid) and 79-81-2 (All-Trans-Retinyl  Palmitate)] in SKH-1 Mice (Simulated Solar Light And Topical Application Study). August 2012, NTP TR 568,  National Institutes of Health. http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/htdocs/LT_rpts/TR568_508.pdf

Puizina-Ivic, N. 2008. Skin aging. Acta Dermatoven APA, Volume 17 (No. 2), 47- 54. http://s3-eu-west-    1.amazonaws.com/journalhub/10.2478/archive/acta-apa-08-2/1.pdf.

Oatmeal Cleanser

Oatmeal is one of my favorite breakfast foods, and now it's also one of my favorite beauty products because it makes a simple, safe, frugal, and effective cleanser for sensitive dry skin.  I used to wash my face with Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, which seemed reasonably priced and worked well.  But when I checked it out on SkinDeep, I found that it contains parabens, which have been linked to endocrine disruption.  No thanks.

Oatmeal contains avenanthramides, phenols possessing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as avenacins, saponins that give the plant cleansing properties similar to soap.  In addition, oatmeal contains starches and beta-glucans that help to protect the skin and hold water, so it also has moisturizing functions (Pazyar 2012).  These properties, combined with a long history of safe use, make oatmeal the perfect cleanser, especially for someone like me, with sensitive dry skin and mild rosacea.

Oatmeal Cleanser

Ingredients:

Approx. 1/2 cup Rolled Oats

You will also need a coffee grinder and a clean, dry, airtight container.

Method:

1.  Put the rolled oats into the coffee grinder and grind into a fine powder.

2.  Keep the powder in a clean, dry airtight container.

3.  When you are ready to wash your face, take a generous pinch of the powder and place it in the palm of your hand.  

4.  Mix in enough tepid water to form a paste.

5.  Splash some tepid water on your face and neck.

6.  Gently massage the oatmeal paste onto your face and neck.

7.  Rinse off by splashing with several handfuls of tepid water.

8.  Gently pat dry.

9.  Follow up with moisturizer.

I love my oatmeal cleanser.  It leaves my skin feeling fresh and clean, without any of the tightness or dryness that comes after using regular soap.  It keeps redness at bay.  Also, an entire canister of oatmeal costs just a little over a dollar and will last for several months, so it's very frugal.

Image Source:  http://pixabay.com/en/oats-oat-field-arable-cereals-8946/

References:

Environmental Working Group (EWG) SkinDeep Database:  http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/

Pazyar N, YaghoobiR, Kazerouni A, Feily A. Oatmeal in dermatology: A brief review. Indian JDermatol      Venereol Leprol 2012;78:142-5.  doi: 10.4103/0378-6323.93629.

Splitting Hairs, Part Two - Beat the Heat with Hot Hair

The Problem

Frizzy Days are Here Again

Well, here in south Texas, the polar vortex is over.  About 15 seconds after the vortex ended, the heat and humidity set in.  (That 15 second interval in between is what we refer to as Spring).  So, while the calendar may say that it's only April... yeah, its actually already summer.  Which in south Texas means heat, humidity, and the potential for plenty of bad hair days.

Well, everybody's different, so your problems might be different from my problems, and what works for me may not work for you.  Personally, I have a head full of fine, thick, wavy hair.  (By fine, I mean each hair is very fine.  By thick, I mean I have a whole lot of those fine little hairs growing on my head). So when the heat and humidity set in, my hair becomes a hot frizzy mess.

Image Source:  Microsoft

Honestly, the only way to get my hair to look decent is to use some form of heat styling device - be it a blow dryer with a diffuser, hot rollers or a flat iron. The problem is that heat is very damaging to hair.  For years, my go-to solution was TRESemme Thermal Creations Heat Tamer Spray.  At about $3.98 for an 8 oz. bottle, it's affordable. I can't even tell you how many times I've seen it recommended in beauty magazines, and in my personal experience, it seems to work well.

Another product that I cared for very deeply was John Frieda Frizz-Ease Dream Curls Curl Perfecting Spray.  This stuff provided just the right amount of hold to provide perfect definition for my loose waves, without leaving them too stiff and crunchy.  I would often spray it in and just let my hair air dry, but on days I was feeling frisky I would use a little Dream Curls, add a little Heat Tamer, then blow dry with a diffuser attachment for extra bouncy waves.

So you can imagine the wave of desolation and loss that flooded over my soul when I discovered that John Frieda Dream Curls earned a score of 6 (Moderate Hazard) on SkinDeep, and even worse, TRESemme Heat Tamer received a score of 8 (High Hazard).  I won't torture you with the details of all the sordid ingredients, but fragrance, formaldehyde releasers and parabens top the list.  I swear, it felt like I had gotten dumped by an old boyfriend!  So I did the only thing I could - picked myself up, dusted myself off, and found my own way.

The Solution

Beat the Heat Sweet Wheat Hair System

Image:  E. Kertesz

Trehalose

As I began to research heat-styling solutions, I came across a study abstract published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science which reported that human hair treated with trehalose solution prior to being straightened with a hot iron maintained the hairstyle even when subjected to high humidity (Pye 2012).  I noticed that the abstract didn't say anything about trehalose acting as a heat protectant, but still, a substance that can hold a style even in high humidity is definitely something that intrigues me.  But what on earth is trehalose?

It turns out that trehalose is a naturally occuring sugar molecule which is synthesized by many different non-mammal life forms. Scientists have found that this molecule functions as a bio-protectant on the cellular level against environmental stressors such as heat, cold, dehydration, etc., and as a result, it has many potential applications for use in food, cosmetics, health products, and even in cryogenics.  (Jain 2009).  As an ingredient, SkinDeep gave trehalose a score of 0 (Low Hazard), which is great.  

Trehalose can be used as a sugar substitute, and is available for online purchase from natural health retailers such as Swanson Vitamins.  Not that I'm advertising for Swanson, or that I expect them to give me a cut, but I thought you might want to know where I found this stuff, so here is the link.  

When my trehalose shipment arrived, I was very excited, but I still had a big problem to solve.  The study abstract said that trehalose provided good hold in the face of humidity, but it did not say that it actually protected the hair from heat styling. 

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

After much searching, I finally came across a study performed by scientists with International Specialty Products which tested thermal degradation of hair treated with a few selected substances: PVP/DMAPA acrylates copolymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein, and quaternium 70.  All three products were found to reduce the rate of Tryptophan (amino acid) degradation in the hair by 10-20%.  (McMullen 1998).  This post on The Beauty Brains Blog provides a nice, easy to understand discussion about the findings of the study and is helpful if you are interested in how heat protectants work.

I checked SkinDeep, of course, and as stand alone ingredients, PVP/DMAPA acrylates copolymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein, and quaternium 70 all received Low Hazard scores.  The problem is, once these ingredients are combined in a commercially prepared formulation, they usually have been preserved, stabilized, emulsified, etc. with other ingredients that are hazardous.

There are a few commercially prepared products which received good scores on SkinDeep, but found that they were way out of my budget.  So then I looked online to see if I could just buy straight hydrolyzed wheat protein (the most natural-ish sounding of the three tested ingredients) and make my own heat spray.  And it turns out I can.

If you decide to try this on your own - be careful.  First of all, if you are allergic to, or think you might be allergic to wheat - DON"T try it!  Second, there are a few different retailers that sell hydrolyzed wheat protein, but be sure to check the ingredients to make sure you know what you are getting.  Sometimes they add preservatives such as DMDM Hydantoin (which is a formaldehyde releaser).  

I ended up purchasing mine from a retailer called Green Beauty Products (here is the link).  It does not contain any preservatives, so it has to be refrigerated.  I should also point out that the hydrolyzed wheat protein is not meant to be used alone at full concentration - it must be diluted.

The Recipes

Originally, I tried combining both the trehalose and the hydrolyzed wheat protein together with water in a hair spray.  However, I discovered that the hydrolyzed wheat protein does not keep long at all once mixed with water, so I've found that it's actually better to use the products as a two-part system.

Trehalose Spray

The inspiration for this recipe came from Whole New Mom's recipe for Homemade Alcohol-Free Hairspray.  I simply substituted trehalose for the sugar.  Whole New Mom uses 4 teaspoons of sugar in her recipe, but I've found that 2 teaspoons of trehalose works better if you are planning to straighten your hair, because it is a bit easier to comb through.

Ingredients

1 cup filtered water

2 teaspoons trehalose

You will also need a clean spray bottle.

Directions:

1.  Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan or tea kettle.

2.  Dissolve the trehalose in the water.  (I brought the water to a boil in a teakettle and mixed the trehalose and boiling water in a heat proof measuring cup).

3.  Allow the mixture to cool.  (At this point, you can also add a few drops of essential oil if you want.  I left mine unscented).

4.  Carefully pour into a spray bottle.  The trehalose spray will last longer than the hydrolyzed wheat spray, but you may want to store in the refrigerator so it will last longer.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Spray

This is very easy to whip up, because you can just stir the hydrolyzed wheat protein into cold filtered water (no boiling needed).  Since the wheat protein goes bad very fast once mixed with water, I like to make this in very small batches that I can store in the refrigerator and use up within the week.

Ingredients

1 teaspoon hydrolyzed wheat protein

1/4 cup filtered water

1.  Mix ingredients together.

2.  Carefully pour into a spray bottle.

3.  Store in the refrigerator.

When you are ready to heat style your hair, simply spray in both products and style as usual.

At some point, I would like to try using sugar instead of trehalose to see if there is really a big difference, since plain table sugar is much less expensive and easier to find than trehalose.  And, to get a better handle on frizzies and flyaways, I'm working on a recipe for homemade agar/aloe hair gel (inspired by this post from Bonzai Aphrodite) that I hope to share with you soon.

I am absolutely thrilled with my Beat the Heat Sweet Wheat Hair Spray.  I figured out that once I combined all the ingredients in both recipes, it came out to less than $0.30 per ounce, compared to almost $0.50 per ounce for the Tresemme Heat Tamer and more than $0.80 per ounce for the John Frieda Dream Curls.  So it's less expensive, it has replaced both of those products in my bathroom cabinet, and best of all, it's pretty harmless.

References

McMullen, R. and J. Jachowicz.  Thermal degradation of hair.  II.  Effect of selected polymers and surfactants.  
     J Cosmet Sci.  1998.  Jul-Aug; 49:  245-56.  

Pye S, Paul PK.  Trehalose in hair care:  heat styling benefits at high humidity.  J Cosmet Sci.  2012.  Jul-Aug; 63(4):      233-41.  PMID 23193887.